Sunday, June 29, 2008

Mailing Address

UDPATE: I posted a better address. Also (MOM) if you want it to reach me before the end of the program it needs to get sent soon. We finish July 18.

A couple people asked about my mailing address. It is:

Mr. Thomas Kleeman
Office of International Programs

Kanazawa Institute of Technology

7-1 Ohgigaoka, Nonoichi, Ishikawa 921-8501
Japan

Mail is really slow though, so if anyone wanted to send anything it has to be sent soon or it won't reach me before the end of the program.

Birthday Party, Homestay

It's really hard to believe that I've been in Japan over a month now. A lot of it is almost starting to seem normal, which is even stranger than it was when it seemed so foreign.

On Wednesday of this week the SGE stn June and July. So, after class we went out to the picnic area behind the cafeteria and had beef, udents threw a party for the people who have Birthdays vegetables and rice. Beef is really good here, it's expensive, and it does taste different from most of the beef in the US, but it's delicious. So, we hung out and ate, talked with the Japanese students, and sung happy birthday 8 times. One of the students made a really tasty cake. It was really think pastry, almost like crepe layered with whipped cream and mandrin oranges. Definately different from an american cake, it was light and fluffy, but not very sweet at all. Actually, most sweets in Japan have much less sugar than in the US. Also, most of the really sweet stuff I've had is bean paste, rather than chocolate or sugar. It has a really interesting flavor/texture, I can't really describe it.

This weekend all of the US students in the program went for a homestay with a Japanese family. One other student and I stayed with the Hara family. They lived about 10 minutes away, near the other side of Kanazawa. Mr. Hara was a Chemist at Kanazawa University, and Ms. Hara was a pharmacist, although right now she's staying at home with the children. They had three kids, (from oldest to youngest) Kotaro, Yutaro, and Shitaro. While having similar names might seem wierd in the US, its not all that uncommon in Japanese families. They were 7, 5, and (I think) 1.5. The kids were really nice. They loved Pokemon, so I watched a couple episodes while I was there. A lot of the Pokemon names are different in Japanese, but Pikachu is still the same. A lot of Pokemon are actually named after gitaigo or giongo. These two are similar to onomonopia in English, but they also include sounds for many non-auditory senses. For example, toothed (like saws) is "gizagiza" and soft is "fuwafuwa". Pikachu is actually made us of "pika" the sound of electricity, and "chu" the sound of a mouse. The other American student staying with me (Xander) brought his DS, and the kids loved it. They hadn't seen the Pokemon game before, so they sat there watching him and shouting Pokemon names. We hung out with them most of Saturday afternoon, they were really easy to talk to since they use mostly simple words and grammar.
Today we went to the samurai district in Kanazawa, and to a traditional craft "village". The samurai district is half original houses, and half modern replicas of the old samurai housing in Kanazawa. The city actually has a lot of older buildings compared to Tokyo and many of the other cities, because Kanazawa had no major military target during WW2, so only about 5% of the city was ever damaged. The entire district has mud walls along the street, with tiled tops to stop the water from getting on them when it rains. We visited the Nomura house, which had a really amazing garden. They also had katanas, armor, and a bunch of other relics from the household.
The craft "village"/tourist attaction was also really amazing. Kanazawa is fairly famous in Japan for gold leaf. The village had a lot of arts and crafts stuff, and you were able to watch most of the gold leaf being produced. Because we were with young kids we made soba (Japanese noodles). I got to eat the soba I made once we were done, it was really tasty. After that we headed back to their house and made giyoza (the Japanese equivalent of potstickers). Those were also really good. After dinner we had to pack up and say goodbye.
Overall it was really amazing to spend the weekend with a Japanese family. I'd spent time with Nobu's family, but this was completely different. We spent much more time speaking in Japanese, and it was also very different to stay in their house, rather than in a different apartment. I think the most amazing thing to me was the way the children were treated. Japanese children are given a much longer leash. While we were out they were allowed to run around more or less unsupervised. They stayed within earshot, but they were often out of sight. At school Japanese children also have a lot more responsibility. From grade one they have to clean the room themselves, and during lunch they take turns serving the school lunch to their classmates.
So, three weeks into the program, three weeks left. We're gearing up on the final project (I don't think I've mentioned it much yet), and the work is piling on a little more. I can't wait to learn more.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Sorry it's been so long between posts again. I really need to get back into a routine on updating. School is going really well, the classes are all pretty interesting and I'm learning a lot of Japanese. The program focuses a lot on fluency, so while I may not have learned many new grammar since the start of the program, I've certainly picked up a lot of new vocabulary, and I'm able to use it much faster. The most difficult thing so far has been the kanji. We're learning about 5-10 per day. I don't think I'd have any chance of remembering that many if I wasn't seeing them so often. Being able to learn a figure in class and then see it on the menu at lunch really makes it much easier to pick them up.
We had a long weekend this weekend, so most of the IJST students took trips to Kyoto or Osaka. I'd planned on trying do some biking/camping with a couple of people, but unfortunately it looks like the rainy season has started. We had rain every day this weekend, and the humidity is way up. The rainy season usually lasts from early June into July, but it started a few weeks late this year so no one's 100% sure when it's going to continue until. In the mean time I just need to keep my umbrella close by. As the local saying goes: "Forget your lunch, but don't forget your umbrella."
So instead of heading out this weekend I ended up hanging around KIT over the weekend. Saturday night we went to karaoke with the Japanese students. Karaoke in Japan is really different from in America. In Japan you rent out a private room with couches, a tv/stereo, and a karaoke setup. You can select songs using a wireless touchpad, and it queues them up and plays with, with music videos, on the TV. The system can also score you on how well you did, adding some competition to it. Suprisingly karaoke in Japan has a lot of American songs. I also tried to sing some Japanese songs, but it was tough to read the lyrics fast enough. The other thing that was really different from America was the pricing, karaoke was 3000 yen (about 30 dollars) for as long as you wanted to stay, and as much as you wanted to drink. Overall, really reasonably priced, we ended up staying for about 4 hours.
We also headed downtown over the weekend to explore a little bit. After walking around for a little while we found a temple and decided to check it out. It ended up having a really beautiful garden. We asked around later, but none of the Japanese students knew what it was called or had ever been there.A cool thing to notice in this, the vines are held up over the water by poles. A lot of the Japanese gardens have wood structures supporting the plants.

After that we shopped around for a little bit. A lot of the clothing in Japan is pretty hilarious. They really like English, they think it's cool the same way a lot of people back in the US think Japanese lettering looks really neat. Unfortunately, most of the clothing has really terrible grammar. Some of the highlights were:

"LOvE HErOiN Like live in moment not for today NOT LET YOU CONTROL ME"
"PEACE ON MARS HARDCORE"
"LUST OF SURF TRIP"
and "DAMMIT! this is how we do!"

Whether or not anyone who wears these really understands the English is questionable. Most people just wear the shirts because they look nice and English is cool. We didn't end up buying anything though, it was all designer so it was like $50 a shirt.
I did end up buying some manga. It's all in Japanese, but it has furigana, a phonetic spelling over each word, so I can get through most of it (slowly) with a dictionary. Another one of the weird pricing things between Japan and the US. Manga is about half the price here, but anime is twice as expensive.
Also I know a lot of people asked about food. I'm eating out for most meals since I can't really shop very well (the supermarkets have a lot of wierd stuff) and because our kitchens aren't spectacular. Food in Japan is actually not much more expensive that the US. Beef, dairy, and fruits are all really pricy because they have to be imported, but most restaurants just avoid cooking with them. For breakfast most days I have a piece of fruit (about $1-$1.50 each depending on what I buy) and then get something at the bakery on the way to school. The bakeries in Japan have a really different selection from most places in the US. There are a lot more things with meat or vegetables baked into them, and a lot less sweets. I really like the rolls with bacon and corn. Those run about $1 each. Lunch and dinner are usually about the same. I also eat onigiri for breakfast a lot. Onigiri are rice balls with chicken, fish, etc. inside wrapped in seawead. They're 1-1.25 depending on the filling, and I eat about two of them. Cereal is very very expensive here, which is too bad. Ramen and curry are the two most popular cheap choices for cheap, non-breakfast food in Japan. Ramen (see the picture) is kind of like the free-dried ramen available in the US, but much, much better. It is served with a variety of toppings, but pork, eggs, seeweed, bean sprouts, and leek are the most common. Ramen is between 2 and 4 dollars a bowl. You can also buy a set, which is ramen with rice and some other side, usually a vegetable, for 6-8 dollars. One bowl of ramen is usually enough though, unless you're feeling really hungry. Curry is also really popular. The curry place near our apartment serves rice and curry with a piece of pork for 5.50. This is usually way too much food for me, I've only ever managed to get through about 3/4 of it. Even food at sit-down restaurants is really cheap. Tonight I ate tempura chicken, squash, some meat, some other meat, rice, miso soup, a cabbage salad, and a meatball for 6.50. It was a ton of food, I came nowhere close to finishing. The most expensive meal I've eaten was beef at a sit-down place inside a tourist attraction for 10. There are also a fair number of American fast food places around, although they're more of a treat. Within walking distance we have a McDonalds, a KFC, and a Pizza Hut. The McDonalds and the KFC actually taste exactly like their American counterparts, but they're more expensive, 6-7 for a meal. The Pizza Hut is nothing like Pizza Hut. They serve a lot of really wierd toppings and crusts, nothing you'd recognize in the US. Also, because of the cost of cheese the pizzas are small and pricey. Overall, it's actually really cheap to eat here compared to the US. Most meals cost me less than five dollars, and I'm certainly not going hungry.
I've got to get back to homework now. Mom - I promise I'll update sooner next time.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Keeping Busy

Sorry it's been so long between updates. They've been keeping us really busy at school, and on top of it somone was being stupid and managed to knock out the internet for our building. So, the only place I can get internet is at school on the laptop they've issued, which is slow and all in Japanese. They keys are in slightly different places, and most of the menus are completely unreadable, but it's manageable.
The first week of classes have been a lot of fun. They're certainly keeping us busy, but the work isn't too bad, and it's amazing how much I've learned. Even in one week I think I've become much more comfortable with speaking Japanese in casual settings and improvising beyond the phrases they've had us memorize (please, thankyou, could you please...). The really interesting part of the program has been interacting with the Japanese students on such a regular basis. It's amazing to see how much you can communicate with a few words and a hand gesture, and it's really interesting sometimes to see the cultural difference. I really don't have room or time to type out everything I've noticed, but if anyone's interested I can post some of the essay I've had to write for the Japanese culture class.

This last weekend they canceled class Friday, and bused us all up to Anamizu to stay at a gym/dorm facility owned by KIT. Think of it as kind of a summer home facility owned by the college. On the way up we stopped at a museum dedicated to early Japanese "robots" and other cool ancient mechanics. These ranged from a purely recreational robot capable of serving tea to an ancient cart geared to maintain a set bearing by using differential gears in the wheels. The museum also had a lot of really cool demonstrations of optical illusions and perspective tricks.

From the museum we continued on the the facility at Anamizu. It was really nice to get out away from the city again, off the beaten path a little. Rural Japan is really strange, and not something I had really given much thought to before arriving. The US view of Japan really focuses so much on the neon lights and the urban sprawl of Tokyo that its easy to overlook a lot of the smaller villages. Anamizu, like a lot of the smaller villages I've seen so far, was really just a small down-town built up around a main street. The rest of the city was small homes and rice patties owned by fishers and farmers. More traditional houses were much more popular than the high-rises in Tokyo and Kanazawa, making for a lot of really scenic views. The whole look of the town was very traditionally Japanese, but a very different Japan from the one I've seen most of the trip. The black dots in the water are buoys you can see in the picture are used by local fishermen to cultivate clams and mussels.
After arriving, we dropped our stuff of an headed out to the docks by the dorm. KIT owns a dozen or so boats at Anamizu, and the program took all 38 IJST students out on a large one to get a better look at the bay. The cruise was really relaxing after being on the bus all day, and a really cool opportunity to see even more of Anamizu. We left at about 6PM, passing a lot of fishermen, pulling nets in small tugs, or checking mussels on the buoys. It's hard to really describe how strange it was to see such a different side of Japan. So much (basically all) of what I've seen in person so far has been cities. The entire atmosphere out that far seemed entirely different. I'm sure it's really not so different from the difference between the city and the country back in the US, but seeing it in Japan was very cool.
After the boat ride we had a barbecue with the SGE (students for global exchange) students from KIT. As I mentioned we've been seeing a lot of them, and it's amazing to really to see and interact with students living in such a different place on such a regular basis. After the barbecue we hung out for a while and played some card games. I also got the opportunity to use a Japanese style public bath back at the dorm. It was sort of strange, but would actually have been really nice, had they had the water at the right temperature. Instead it was up way higher than it should have been, and after two minutes in my hands started going numb and I decided to get out.

The next day we got up early, and were back on the road. This time we stopped at Wajima, a fishing town and port at the tip of the peninsula. Wajima was absolutely beautiful. The city is nestled right between the mountains and the ocean, surrounded on both sides by steep mountains dropping off straight into the ocean. We walked through an open air market there, selling a lot of locally made crafts, and lots and lots of fish. They had piles of crabs that were still live, and all sorts of squid and octopus, as well as a huge varitey of fish. At the advice of one of the SGE students I tried a free sample of what turned out to be "fish guts pickled in salt" according to his cell-phone translation. I'd already chewed and swallowed it by the time he gave me the translation. It was pretty good. I might have bought some, but I didn't want to carry it back on the bus. After the market we wandered around the city for a little longer. They had a small hotspring supplying a free public footbath, so we all took the opportunity to wait there for a while.

After that we got to see another unique feature of Wajima first hand. A lot of ports and fishing cities have a lot of fishing cities have a lot of gulls, etc. that are attracted by the bits and pieces left by boats unloading. Wajima had a large population (at least 20) of トンビ(literally kites), large hawks with a wingspan of about 5ft. The birds hang out over the town, stealing fish from the market and docks. We'd been warned about them at the market, but a lot of people hadn't taken the warning all that seriously. We could only see a few of them (1-2) because of the tall buildings, and they didn't really look very large up that high. It also hadn't really occured to anyone how aggressive they were, until we were warned by a local after buying icecream and walking out onto one of the larger streets. Not 30 seconds later one of the kites swooped down and knocked the icecream out of the hands of one of the students just ahead of me. They ended up being much bigger than they'd seemed, and much more aggressive than I'd assumed. We saw the warning signs on the way back to the bus.

We stopped at the Shiji temple on the way back. It was pretty cool, I saw a sweet monk. On the way back we passed a lot of really spectacular seashore, arriving back to Kanazawa in time to catch a great sunset. Below are a bunch of pictures I couldn't fit in above.

The maintains around Wajima. The seashore was just off to the right of this.


Most of the exchange/Japanese students at Shiji temple.


The seashore on the way back. Most of it looked like this, really amazing.


The sunset from the top of our building, Nishikawa Heights.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Settling In

Things are starting to get into a regular routine in Kanazawa. We've completed our placement tests, and been issued our laptops (reliable internet!). Classes start tomorrow at 9:50, and go until about 3:30 every day. I will be studying Japanese language and culture.

It's really a change to get settled into a regular daily routine after moving around so much. It's a little more normal, and a little less fun. Even so there's still a lot of cool stuff going on here. We were walking to dinner tonight, and stopped at a corner to check the map when the shopkeeper hustled out of one of the stores and asked if we were Rose-Hulman students. Apparently he knew Professor Lautzenheiser, a math professor at Rose, really well. We weren't quite able to figure out where he'd met him, but it was interesting talking too him all the same. He showed us a Christmas card from Professor Lautzenhesier, and was really eager to talk to us in English. He spoke really well, and apparently had learned all of it from US radio and TV. He was really excited to ask us about Japanese food in the US, and he wanted to know our opinions on the Iraq war. We ended up eating dinner at his restaurant. It was really good, and fairly cheap. The entire experience was a really strange small world experience.

We did a lot of stuff over the weekend too. The Hyakumangoku Matsuri festival was held in Kanazawa. The festival celebrates the historical unification of the region by Maeda Toshii. We visited Kanazawa castle, and Kenroku-en garden. The castle was fairly neat, but the garden was phenomenal. Kenroku-en is Japan's third most beautiful garden (who knows what criteria?) and has a bunch of trees and a river. One of the really interesting things to see were the way the trees were supported. Almost all of the large trees had wooden posts tied to the branches in order to support them in the winter. As a result, a lot of the branches were grown into strange, almost impossible shapes. I'll post a bunch of pictures once my internet is a little better.

After seeing Kenroku-en we walked back into town to watch a parade. A lot of the parade was fairly normal by western standards. Marching bands, cheer squads, boy scouts (they have berets in Japan). It also had some decidedly eastern conponents, such as a performance by the firefighters, where they did acrobatics on top of laddders raised in the middle of the street. The entire parade culminated with a samurai procession re-enacting the entrace of the victorious Maeda Toshii into Kanazawa. After the parade there was a huge folk-dance competition in the streets, with competitors from different companies dressed in different color kimonos. The entire city was alive and lit up, entirely different from the way I'd seen it before.

Overall I'm looking forward to a more normal routine. It'll be nice to settle down (a little bit).

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Still Alive

So, after a bit, I've made it to Kanazawa. For those of you that might not know, I'm going to be here in Kanazawa for 6 weeks as part of an immersion program through Rose.

The train ride here was really amazing. It was a 4 hour ride by train. The first hour (and about half the distance) was by bullet train. The ride on the bullet train was really relaxing. Despite getting up to almost 200mph, there was almost no noticeable acceleration or deceleration, and the train itself was dead quiet (thanks to its electric engine). The second half was on a regular high speed train, it was noisier, but still alright. The train had vending machines and bathrooms, plus it was nearly empty so Colin and I had plenty of room to spread out.

But, it was the scenery that really made the trip outstanding. We passed through a lot of rural Japan on the way. The entire way was dotted with little villages, terraced with rice patties and tucked between mountains. We alternated between tunnels the whole way, riding for a dozen or so minutes before breaking back through to the twilight. Unfortunately, the sun set all too soon, leaving it too dark to see anything outside. Only a few sparse lights would mark the distance we traveled outside the tunnels.

Kanazawa itself is going to be a big change from Tokyo. My apartment is alright; I share a three bedroom apartment with one other person. It has a fridge, stove, toaster oven, all the normal stuff. The building is a little run down though. The closest internet is two floors down, and on the other side of the building (too far away for wireless). The tap water is also undrinkable, due to corroded pipes (they're in the process of replacing them this summer). It's really different from Nobu's complex in Tokyo, but even in a building this old the same hallmark Japanese cleanliness is still omnipresent. The appliances may be a little rusted, but the cabinets and floors are spotless.

The city itself is also much smaller. I'm a few miles from the train station instead of a few blocks, the restaurants aren't all open 24 hours, and it's harder to find ATMS. It's also nice to have some scenery though, to get away from the Tokyo landscape. Still, it's going to be different, and it's probably going to mean even more walking.

Either way, I'm really looking forward to the program. We go through orientation activities tomorrow, and classes start next Tuesday.


Monday, June 2, 2008

Not Much

Nobu didn't really have anything planned to do, so we decided to ride into Shinjyuku and look at the precinct government building, which we'd seen the other night on the way to dinner. The station at Shinjyuku was huge. It was a junction for 15 JR lines and a dozen or so subway lines. I took a couple pictures, but they don't really show much. The Shinjyuku station underground was absolutely enormous. On the way to the precinct building we stopped at a graveyard/shrine. Japanese graveyards are very different from most of the ones in the US. To begin with, everyone is cremated, the graveyard had no bodies. Also, the graves were much smaller and packed much closer together. Some graves also had more than one person from the same family. The shrine also had a well for visitors to get water to wash the graves of their family. Each grave had some sort of vase or holder for flowers, as well as a place to burn incense. The other really noticeable difference are the wooden posts. These are bought by the family and placed at the grave annually at the day of the person's death. The other thing that struck me about the graveyard was how strange it seemed to walk through a graveyard right in the middle of the city. It was a really interesting thing to see.

From the graveyard, we finished the walk to the precinct capital building. The capital building has an expres elevator up to the 45th floor, which is apparently a pretty popular attraction. You can normally see Mt. Fuji well from up there, but unfortunately it was too cloudy today. Either
way, we still got a good look at the city. It was really amazing up at the top, the view really gives you an idea of just how big Tokyo is. Looking out it stretches all the way to the horizon, just building after building. We also had a good look at the Meiji shrine from up there. It was absolutely spectacular, a solid green spot in the middle of the city.

The weather was starting to look a little nasty, so we finished up there and headed back to the train, stopping to see another nearby shrine along the way. We barely made it back before the rain started. Tomorrow we're going to pick up Colin, which means my time in Tokyo is almost up. Just three more days before I start school in Kanazawa.